過橋米線
Crossing-Bridge NoodlesScalding chicken broth poured over rice noodles, ham and quail egg at the table.

龍庭LONGTINGLóngtíng/long-ting/
A Yunnan-and-Sichuan kitchen, table by table.
THE KUNMING POURMACAU · A LANTERN-LIT LANE IN THE OLD QUARTEROrder it first. The rest of dinner arranges itself around it.
Chicken broth held at ninety-eight degrees, carried to the table under a film of oil that keeps the heat in. It goes into the bowl from a height — rice noodles, ham, quail egg, chrysanthemum — and cooks in front of you in eight seconds.
A dining room built for company — round tables, low lanterns, and a kitchen close enough to hear.

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