
PARIS · DEUXIÈME
A dining room and a bar,
held to the same standard.
The fish comes up from Sète overnight. Tonight's board is written at ten.
A fictional Vlavera restaurant demonstration.Reservation buttons can link to the service you already use.
THE TIDE
The kitchen is Mallorcan. The building is not.
It is the only honest name for a kitchen that does not know on Monday what it will serve on Thursday.
Six or seven things are landed at Sète and Port-Vendres in the afternoon and are in the kitchen by six the next morning, and they decide the middle of the menu. The ends stay fixed — the bread, the olives cured in the cellar, the almond tart that has not changed since we opened.
Everything else is written on a board by ten in the morning, which is why we will not print you a menu to take home.
05:00
at Rungis, and the coast van is in
10:00
the board is written
19:00
vermut, and the room opens
DINING · 19:00 — 23:30
Thirty-four covers, one seating a night on the marble tables and two at the bar counter. Four courses or à la carte — the kitchen would rather you took the four.

Friday 28 August
Written at ten this morning, after the coast van.
THE MIDDLE · CHANGES
THE ENDS · DO NOT
Menú de marea
€78Four courses off the board, chosen by the kitchen. It is the whole point of coming, and it is what we would rather you ordered.
The middle changes most days. The ends do not. If you want to know what will be on it next Thursday — so do we.
FOUR OF TONIGHT'S SEVEN
The photographs change with the board. If a plate is not here, it is because it was not landed.
THE ENDS · ALWAYS HERE
These five do not change, and have not since we opened.
BAR · 19:00 — 02:00
Fourteen stools, its own short menu, and it keeps going two hours after the kitchen closes. You can spend the whole evening here and never take a table — a good many regulars do.
No reservations at the bar. If the stools are full, the vermut is just as good standing up.
THE SALON · TEN TO FOURTEEN
The salon has its own stair off the courtyard, so nobody walks your party through the dining room to get to it. Boiserie, a marble chimneypiece, and the roofs of the deuxième out of the window. The fire is laid from October.
Same board as downstairs — four courses, or everything at once. Tell us which when you write.
EL CELLER · THURSDAY TO SATURDAY · 23:00 — 04:00
A celler is what a Mallorcan calls the room under the house where the wine is. This one is under a Paris street.
Stone vaults, a low ceiling, eighty people and no seating to speak of once it fills. It opens at eleven, once the last of the four courses has gone up and the floor down here has just been cleared.
Two horns, a pair of turntables and somebody who has thought about the order. No booth, no list, no requests. The bar comes down from upstairs at half past two and the room goes until four, or until it doesn't.
80
and then the door holds
04:00
Thursday, Friday, Saturday
Free
no cover, no bookings
The way in is the green door in the courtyard, not through the restaurant — a dining room with a queue running through it is not a dining room. If you ate with us that evening, tell whoever is on the door and you are already in.
Nobody under twenty-one, and we would rather you did not arrive in a large group.
VISIT
Between the Bourse and Montorgueil, four minutes on foot from Grands Boulevards. You will see the chandelier before you see the name — the frontage is all glass and the room is lit from six.
Reservation and phone buttons are demonstrations — replaced with the restaurant’s real contact links before launch.
Placeholder address and number — replaced with the real ones before launch.
FINDING IT
There is no sign, and there does not need to be.
The name is etched small on the right-hand door at eye height. Everything else is the light — from the pavement you can see straight through to the bar at the back, the only advertisement the building has ever needed.
MAREA DOES NOT EXISTYOUR RESTAURANT, NEXT
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